Travel Guide to the Northwest Passage and Arctic Canada
From the spine-tingling scenery around Baffin Bay to the fabled Northwest Passage and beyond, the Arctic band from Alaska to Greenland is a vast region of limitless beauty.
The legendary Northwest Passage
For centuries, attempts were made to cross the 1,700-nautical-mile passage from Baffin Island in the east to the Beaufort Sea in the west while searching for a shorter route between Europe and Asia. None were successful and many lives were lost until Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen finally succeeded in 1906.
The Northwest Passage is inaccessible for most of the year. Only in July and September does the ice recede enough to allow crossings, and only a few offer expedition cruises that attempt to transit the full passage from one great ocean to another.
Travelling through the Northwest Passage is a unique experience perfect for the most adventurous explorers. Here, across the top of the world, you’ll experience the raw beauty of nature. This legendary waterway is known for its largely untouched landscapes, forming pristine habitats for a wide array of wildlife both on land and below the water.
Travelling through the Northwest Passage
You can choose to transit the labyrinth of the Northwest Passage eastward from Alaska to Greenland, or westward from Greenland to Alaska. Both represent epic adventures, and you’ll discover traditional Inuit settlements, UNESCO-listed sites, spectacular scenery and abundant wildlife. Here are some of the highlights we hope to see at each stage of our journey:
In the Beaufort Sea and Bering Strait
1. The Bering Strait
The Bering Strait is captivating due to its unique blend of natural and cultural significance. It's a narrow passage that separates two continents, Asia and North America, with a mere 55 miles between them.
This geological marvel is also a vital migratory route for numerous species, including whales and seabirds. Moreover, it holds historical importance as a bridge for early human migrations. These are the traditional homelands of Inupiaq and Yupik peoples. The Bering Strait is also a crossroads where geology, history, and culture converge, making it a fascinating destination.
2. International Date Line
Conditions permitting, we may be able to briefly sail past the international date line where for a few moments you will have 'tomorrow' on one side and 'today' on the other. But don’t worry about changing your calendar as our crossing will be brief and ceremonial!
3. Sailing the Beaufort Sea
This seldom-visited sea is only open for navigation for a short period each year. Our transits are planned for when the sea ice has receded enough to allow safe passage. Sea ice may still be present which will provide opportunities for wildlife watching as we navigate our way through.
It’s important to note that sea ice fluctuations can vary, and sea ice levels may be greater than the seasonal average and affect the speed we’re able to sail through.
Wildlife Watching
As we sail through the Bering Strait, look out for over 30 species of seabirds, including Black-legged Kittiwakes, auklets and murrelets.
Also keep an eye out for bowhead and grey whales as we cross to Point Barrow, the northernmost point of the United States. If sea ice is present, we may also be able to observe huddles of Pacific walruses on the ice floes.
In the western Northwest Passage
1. Herschel Island
This remote island, located off the northern coast of Canada, boasts a rich cultural heritage, with the remnants of Inuvialuit and Western whaling communities. It's a living testament to the past, with well-preserved structures and artefacts. Additionally, the island is a haven for Arctic wildlife, offering opportunities to witness migratory birds and marine life. Herschel Island's blend of history, culture, and pristine landscapes make it a truly intriguing destination in the far north.
2. Smoking Hills
Smoking Hills is an intriguing natural wonder in Canada’s Arctic. This site along the Arctic Ocean coastline is renowned for its blazing cliffs, where lignite – eroded shale mixed with pyrite – spontaneously ignites when exposed to air, creating the phenomenon of smoke billowing from the cliffs. Testament to the Earth's power, the vivid colours and constant smouldering make Smoking Hills an awe-inspiring sight, in an ever-changing display of nature’s fiery artistry.
3. Ulukhaktok
Ulukhaktok in the Northwest Territories is a remote Inuvialuit community known for its vibrant arts and crafts, with talented artisans creating exquisite sculptures and prints showcasing the Arctic's natural beauty. Here, you might see drum dancing and traditional hunting and fishing practices. The beautiful landscape and the warm hospitality of the locals make Ulukhaktok a unique and engaging stop.
4. Cambridge Bay
This charming hamlet is close to the Ekaluk River on Victoria Island and is known for Arctic char fishing. The surrounding terrain is peppered with icy lakes and ponds and the community here is the largest in the Kitikmeot region, with 1,766 people. Due to its natural riches, Cambridge Bay has been inhabited for over 4,000 years, and today it’s home to the Canadian High Arctic Research Station.
5. Coronation Gulf
This waterway derives its name from the HMS Investigator's voyage to the region to search for the lost Franklin Expedition during the coronation year of Queen Victoria in 1851. It’s a place where explorers once braved the harsh conditions in their search for the passage, making it an ideal destination for those intrigued by polar history. Cultural experiences with local Inuit communities add another layer of fascination.
6. Gjoa Haven (Uqsuqtuuk)
Gjoa Haven was named after Roald Amundsen’s ship Gjøa, and holds a pivotal place in Arctic history. In Inuktitut, the hamlet is called Uqsuqtuuk, ‘Place of Plenty of Blubber’.
Amundsen, the first to successfully navigate the Northwest Passage, spent two years here. The unique history, combined with the vibrant Inuit culture, makes Gjoa Haven an extraordinary destination. Unlike many other communities in Nunavut, Gjoa Haven offers a direct connection to one of the most significant Arctic exploration stories.
7. Conningham Bay
Located on the southeast coast of James Ross Island this small bay is one of the wilderness destinations we’ll visit along our route. Here it’s possible to see groups of beluga whales swimming along the shores, and we’ll also keep our eyes out for polar bears.
In the eastern Northwest Passage
Fort Ross
Fort Ross is the site of an abandoned former trading post on Somerset Island in the Kitikmeot region of Nunavut. Founded in 1937, it was operational for only eleven years before severe icy conditions rendered it uneconomical and difficult to reach. The two store buildings are still used as a shelter by Inuit hunters.
2. Beechey Island (Iluvilik)
This site holds a significant place in the history of Arctic exploration, known particularly for the ill-fated Franklin expedition in the mid-19th century. The island is home to several well-preserved grave sites of expedition members, and a monument commemorating Arctic exploration efforts.
3. Prince Leopold Island (Appait)
With soaring cliffs as high as 870 ft, birdlife thrives on Prince Leopold Island. The island is a designated Important Bird Area with species like Black-legged Kittiwakes, Northern Fulmars and guillemots found here in abundance.
4. Croker Bay
Croker Bay is a picturesque bay on the south coast of Devon Island. With two large outlet glaciers streaming down from the island’s ice cap, this is an excellent place for small boat cruising. You may even spot walruses lounging around the calved ice floes.
5. Dundas Harbour
This historic and scenic site is on the southern shores of Devon Island. The harbour is a former Royal Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP) post, and it was also a base for scientific research and exploration. A great spot for a hike, musk oxen are frequently seen along the peninsula.
6. Pond Inlet (Mittimatalik)
Located on Baffin Island’s Eclipse Sound, Pond Inlet is known as Mittimatalik in Inuktitut, meaning ‘The Place Where the Landing Place Is', and it’s home to a small Inuit community. On a clear day here, you can see the snowcapped peaks of Sermilik National Park on Bylot Island across the fjord. We may be lucky enough to have a performance by the Tununiq Arsarniit Theatre Group, which was founded in 1987 and develops its plays and performances by consensus, involving elders as both actors and writers.
Arctic Canada
From the deep blue fjords of Greenland, through the iceberg-strewn waters of Baffin Bay and to the untamed wilderness of Labrador and Newfoundland, Arctic Canada as a showcase of truly spectacular scenery combined with a rich history and ecology.
You’ll see monumental glaciers, soaring mountains, and fjords of unimaginable beauty. As we travel, we may be following the same routes taken by Vikings, and we’ll witness remnants of a colourful past.
Exploring Greenland, Labrador and Newfoundland
As we cruise Greenland, Labrador and Newfoundland, here are some of the highlights you may see:
In South Greenland
1. Kujataa UNESCO World Heritage Site
Greenland's unique subarctic farming landscape Kujataa is where Norse and Inuit cultures harmoniously intertwine. Witness the earliest Arctic farming efforts and some of the farthest-flung and best-preserved European settlements. Here you’ll experience a captivating blend of history, nature and breathtaking scenery.
2. Qassiarsuk
Qassiarsuk is a South Greenland gem, where the Icelandic Viking Erik the Red's settlement meets modern Greenlandic life. Here, you’ll see a vivid replica of a traditional longhouse and stumble over ancient ruins in these peaceful surroundings.
3. Brattahlíð (Qassiarsuk)
The Viking most people are familiar with, Eric the Red, is credited with discovering Greenland when he was exiled from Iceland. Brattahlíð was his homestead, now located in the modern settlement of Qassiarsuk. The Norse were primarily farmers, and this southwestern area of Greenland still has working farmland. Here you can see modern agriculture alongside Viking history.
4. Hvalsey
A wedding in the church at Hvalsey in 1408 is the last documented event from the Norse settlement days. The church was part of a farmstead established in the late 10th century by Thorkell Farserk, the uncle of Eric the Red. The farm was a major centre at the time, with two great halls and fourteen houses close to the church.
5. Qaqortoq
Nestled among rolling hills and colourful houses, Qaqortoq is South Greenland's artistic and cultural heart. It's home to the ‘Stone & Man’ sculpture project, as well as Greenland's oldest fountain. With a unique mix of Norse history, outdoor pursuits, and cultural activities, Qaqortoq showcases Greenland's history and art.
In Torngat Mountains National Park
1. Saglek Bay
Home to the Torngat Mountains Base Camp and Research Station, Saglek Bay is the gateway to Torngat Mountains National Park.
2. Nachvak Fiord
The highest peaks of the Torngats are around Nachvak Fiord, including Mount Caubvick at 5,420 ft, the highest point in mainland Canada east of the Rockies. As you cruise the length of Nachvak Fiord, you’ll feel humbled by its immensity. Practically unknown to the rest of the world, for thousands of years people made this region their home. In more recent times, the Hudson’s Bay Company, which was set up in the 17th century, had an outpost here. As we explore, look out for polar bears, black bears, caribou, arctic foxes, and small whales.
3. Ramah
This scenic site was once an ancient quarry. Close to the entrance of the bay, there is an outcrop of chert — a brittle stone made mainly of silica. As far back as 7,000 years ago, Maritime Archaic people used this once valuable material to make arrowheads, spear points and knives, traded as far away as New England, Chesapeake Bay and the Great Lakes. The Moravian missionaries from Central Europe also established a base here between 1871 and 1908, and some evidence of their presence remains. Explore this intriguing site or take a hike to drink in the views over the bay.
In coastal Labrador
1. Hebron
Hebron is one of Labrador’s most important Moravian sites, with a mission established here in 1871. Despite later being abandoned, it was once a major centre and some of the original buildings have been restored. Sadly, the Inuit population here was ravaged by diseases like whooping cough, smallpox, and the Spanish flu, and a visit to the cemetery is a poignant reminder of this. Plant lovers can seek out the local botanical delights, including crowberries, Labrador tea, butterwort, Labrador willow and various mosses. If you’re feeling energetic, there’s a moderate trail behind the settlement up to a cairn which rewards you with a great view of the area.
2. Mugford Tickle
Head out on deck to enjoy the transit of Mugford Tickle – a highlight of any trip in northern Labrador. It’s the only other location with a chert outcrop, although not as big as Ramah Bay. This narrow passage has spectacular views of the Kaumajet Mountains with deep valleys, cascading waterfalls and a group of rocky outcrops known as the Bishop’s Mitre. Small icebergs are often encountered in the vicinity.
3. Hopedale
The Moravians established a mission at Hopedale in 1728 and it’s another of Labrador’s most important sites. Still standing, some of their buildings are among the oldest wood frame structures in Canada. Learn more about the history of the original inhabitants and the Moravians with a talk from one of the local Inuit historians. The mission complex includes the interpretation centre with three stories of artefacts. Cringe at the medical implements once used, and marvel at the display of arrowheads and small tools made from Ramah chert. You can even pick up a memento of your visit, handcrafted by local artisans. Also, don’t miss the assembly building, complete with Labradorite stone tiling and seal-skin seats.
4. Battle Harbour
Battle Harbour was once known unofficially as the capital of Labrador. Long since abandoned, this busy fishing village has been restored as a National Historic Site. Several buildings house historic artefacts, photographs and display boards. Only paths and boardwalks connect the buildings here, and you’re free to wander. Head into the loft where in 1909 Robert Peary announced he had reached the North Pole from the Marconi Station in Battle Harbour, only to find out later that Dr Frederick Cook claimed he had reached the North Pole the previous year.
5. Red Bay
Up to the early 1600s, every year thousands of Basque men would voyage some 2,500 miles across the North Atlantic towards areas like Red Bay in search of North Atlantic and Greenland right whales. Several of their ships were wrecked in the immediate area including the Basque galleon San Juan, and a chalupa, a 26 ft-long rowboat designed to hunt whales up to three times its own size. Visit the museum here to learn about the history and design of the San Juan, head to the interpretation centre to see a restored chalupa and delve into the history of whaling, or take a shuttle boat to Saddle Island.
In Newfoundland
1. St Anthony
Located at the edge of the Northern Peninsula, this charming coastal town is brimming with history, culture and vistas that will stir your soul. Head to Grenfell Interpretation Centre to hear the story of Dr Wilfred Grenfell, a pioneering missionary who established medical facilities, churches, and schools in the town in the late 1800s and early 1900s. You can also visit Grenfell House Museum, his former home which provides an insight into the way of life a hundred years ago. Only a few steps from the Grenfell Centre, you’ll find the hospital, which is a cultural art piece well worth seeing.
2. UNESCO-listed L’Anse aux Meadows & Norstead
The only known Norse settlement site in North America, L’Anse aux Meadows is a National Historic Site. Explore the fascinating remains of this former settlement and learn about its Viking heritage at the interpretive centre. You can also explore the surrounding area on a walk and look out for moose along the way. At nearby Norstead, gain insight into the Norse way of life at a reconstructed Viking port of trade, complete with a forge, a full-size replica longboat, people in traditional dress, and even axe throwing.
3. Bonavista
Taking its name from the famed exclamation of Giovanni Caboto (known as John Cabot) when he first sighted North America in 1497, beautiful Bonavista is a happy sight indeed. You’ll land in a sheltered harbour right beside the Matthew, a full-size replica of John Cabot’s ship. Attached is a small museum with early exploration artefacts. You can go aboard the Matthew and marvel at how this tiny vessel managed to cross the vast Atlantic Ocean. Not far away, you’ll find the Ryan Premises Museum. Housed in a collection of 19th-century buildings, this museum is dedicated to the history of cod fishing in the village, an industry which put the province on the map.
What to see when circumnavigating Baffin Bay
As you circumnavigate the icy waters of Baffin Bay, here are some of the destinations we hope to visit: On east coast Baffin Island (Qikiqtaaluk)
1. Isabella Bay (Ninginganiq)
Ninginganiq (Isabella Bay) National Wildlife Area is a critical habitat for Arctic wildlife, most notably bowhead whales. As a summer feeding ground for these massive marine mammals, it’s a crucial area for their conservation.
2. Sam Ford Fjord (Kangiqtualuk Uqquqti) and Gibbs Fjord
With towering peaks and magnificent glaciers, these fjords are renowned for their scenery and are popular with nature enthusiasts and adventure seekers alike. The area is rich in wildlife, with marine mammals including seals and whales and a variety of bird species.
3. Coutts Inlet (Inalugaarjuup Kangiqłua)
Experience the solitude and serenity of this remote and seldom-visited wilderness. The 50-mile-deep fjord system contains two arms; the ‘North Arm’ and the main inlet itself. One of the Arctic’s most elusive species, the narwhal, can be found here.
In Lancaster Sound
1. Dundas Harbour
Located on the southern shores of Devon Island, this historic harbour is a former Royal Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP) post and was also a base for scientific research and exploration. It’s also the perfect spot for a hike, and musk oxen are frequently seen along the peninsula.
2. Beechey Island (Iluvilik)
Known particularly for the doomed Franklin expedition in the mid-19th century, this island is home to several well-preserved grave sites of expedition members and a monument commemorating Arctic exploration efforts.
3. Croker Bay
Located on the south coast of Devon Island, this picturesque bay is an excellent place for small boat cruising. It has two large outlet glaciers streaming down from the island’s ice cap. Look out for wildlife such as walruses lounging around the calved ice floes.
4. Coburg Island (Nirjutiqarvik)
This island is a protected National Wildlife Area, and it lives up to its Inuktitut name, Nirjutiqarvik, meaning ‘The Place of Animals’. The island is renowned for its significant seabird colonies, including large populations of Thick-billed Murres and Northern Fulmars, and it’s an important feeding ground for marine mammals.
In West Greenland
1. Uummannaq Fjord
In Greenland’s far north, the beauty of the land and the relative productivity of the environment have attracted people here for thousands of years. Intriguing archaeological sites are mute witness to the ability of Arctic people to thrive in such a harsh environment. We may visit the community of Uummannaq – a beautiful island town with a heart-shaped mountain – or the archaeological site of Qilakitsok, where the famed Greenland mummies were discovered.
2. Viagat Sound
Also called Sullorsuaq Strait, this beautiful waterway sits between two rugged land masses at the north end of Disko Bay. Depending on the weather and wildlife conditions, we might use our small expedition boats to land on a beach or perhaps get up close to a glacier. Have your binoculars and camera ready as wildlife sightings in this region can include humpbacks, orcas and bowhead whales, as well as several types of seal.
3. UNESCO-listed Ilulissat Icefjord
This spectacular UNESCO World Heritage Site regularly tops the list of things to see and do in Greenland. Marvel at giant icebergs floating placidly in the deep blue waters as they take on different hues of white, grey and blue. All photographers, regardless of skill, will return to the ship with the most enviable images. Visit the Icefjord Centre nearby to learn more about the ice in this fascinating area and take a hike to Sermermiut to drink in the incredible views.